walmart is heavily discounting all the external hard drives they have in store, i bought an 8tb for 68 and a 6tb for 69, the 6tb doesn’t work correctly so I might bring it back but i nearly had a heart attack when i saw those prices, if ur in the market for really cheap decent storage thats a good place to look rn
part of me still wants to swap the drives for junk ones and return them both though but id never do something like that 
I’m trying to find a good replacement for my trashcan mechanical keyboard, and I’m falling down a bit of a rabbithole. My old, now broken keyboard had Cherry MX Black switches (60cN actuation force, linear), and I really liked how they felt. I want to stick to linear switches, and I don’t think I want them to be much lighter (or heavier) on the actuation force. But from what I have seen, mainstream keyboards (Steelseries, Corsair, etc) seem to only sell their hardware with tactile switches, or with 45cN linear.
So I started looking at more specialist brands, like Ducky and stuff like that, but then I run into the issue that apparently, the target audience for these sort of keyboards REALLY don’t like numpads. I don’t want a 60%/80%/TKL board. I want a full 104 (or even better, 108/media control set) key board. I also want something with some form of backlighting, that highlights the legend. RGB would be cool because I’m a loser, but I’m willing to accept that as a very optional luxury, simple white backlighting is fine.
When I try to find a keyboard that combines all these options, things start to get super limited, and apparently there are stock issues for the ones that do exist. I’m not sure if this is a temporary thing, or if it’s really just that hard to find the mixture of options I happen to like. A couple items I’ve come across that I would buy if I could actually find some available stock:
I tried searching on ebay for these things, but same issue, what’s available is anything but black switches.
Any advice on where I should be going or what I should be looking for?
Heavy linears are great, the really popular ones right now are gateron ink black (my preference) and kailh creams, if knowing that sets you on any useful paths
I did look into comparable switches, and couldn’t really find much. Problem being, I think, that once you move away from Cherry MX switches, the issue of the target audience’s preferences increases ten fold. Seems all these super enthusiasts only want barebones TKL and 60% keyboards with no backlighting.
Weird I pushed my glasses up my nose and they… glowed?
Backlighting is definitely the limiter, yeah. Shine 7 is probably the best off-the-shelf that checks all of your boxes.
Would you mind some assembly required? (no soldering, just pressing switches into sockets)
I also take commissions. 
Shine 7 looks sweet, but they seem to have really bad stock issues right now.
I took a look at DIY options, actually, but from what I saw, 104/108 key frames are entirely unheard of, and so same for PCBs. Do you know of something/someplace? Or do you mean you have the resources to make your own to those specs?
Yeah, I’m not being coy, I’m just trying not to infodump a thousand words you don’t need
Would this work but for the switch choice? It’s trivial to get a hotswap board and change the switches to your liking.
That would work, yea, though I can also talk to you in DM. Between the cost of the extra parts that I’ll have to swap in, this ends up being about on budget, not sure where your pricing falls.
You’re probably perfectly capable of doing the hotswapping yourself, you don’t need me unless you want something weird or fancy.
I’m almost certain the Keychron and swapping the switches is the cheapest solution that ticks all of your boxes.
If you want RGB and you’re okay with some icky branding, Glorious will sell you the GMMK with Gateron or Kailh Blacks and your choice of keycaps in a full-size layout for $120-$150 (depending on keycap choice*). Click “customize.” I think you have to put the switches in the hotswap sockets but it’d save you the trouble of pulling the switches from the hotswap sockets (maybe 10 minutes).
I think Gateron Blacks are generally better than Kailh Blacks and if you feel fancy the incremental cost for “Ink Blacks” is worth it. (I typically buy switches from novelkeys.xyz domestically or kbdfans.cn if I have a big order of other parts.)
You don’t mention it, but I’d also recommend getting PBT keycaps instead of ABS. PBT won’t show oils and permanently “shine up” like ABS. Getting PBT keycaps that let the backlight through is tricky but sets for full-size boards are easy to find on Amazon.
The “Aura” keycap option on Glorious is PBT and shine-through, apparently.
Oh, that actually looks very nice. The fullsize keyboard with Gateron blacks and GBPT caps comes out to 130 bucks, almost on the nose. Thanks for the direction!
if you have a Microcenter nearby, they actually sell the GMMK in-store for a bit cheaper ($110) and also they seemingly sell a barebones version for 60 bucks
Note the GPBT caps won’t show through the backlight, but the Aura ones that are also PBT will.
Yea, woops, I meant the Aura caps. The GBPT are actually a bit more expensive. Is that like, some kind of premium quality PBT nonsense?
I’m mad I checked MC about this because now I want to buy a barebones kit and frankenstein a board up
The legends are dye sublimated rather than cut/engraved. On the Aura (“pudding” caps) they’re just a different translucent plastic.
The more I learn about keyboard options and features, the more relieved I am that I don’t care enough to actually end up spending 500 dollars on this. I just want an RGB keyboard with 60cN linear switches, which this gives me.
Only missing the media keys, but I kind of realized as I got deeper into this that I was going to have to compromise on something.
I’m considering getting one of those 8-key macropads eventually just for that purpose, if I really end up missing it, but that can be later down the road.
The GMMK has media mappings on the function row fwiw. Probably easier than a macro pad.
Just a quick situation update - I ended up running a Cat6 Ethernet cable (I had that 50’ one still laying around from my previous apartment where I had to run one around a brick wall) directly from the LAN on my PC to the Pi. It definitely runs better than over wifi (no drops at all) though I still get fairly significant FPS fluctuations on the TV. (RE7 and retroarch run perfectly at 60fps for whatever reason but everything else I’ve tried seems to swing between 20-45.) I’m going to mess around a little more with different settings in Moonlight and on the PC when I have time but I’m about to throw in the towel and just go buy a 30’ HDMI cable and be done with it.
Anything else fun/useful I can do with this Pi to justify the purchase rather than putting it on a shelf somewhere and forgetting about it?
I have each of an Octopi (3D print server and incidental ssh gateway to the rest of my network) / Pihole (network-wide adblocker for devices I can’t run adblock on directly) / Retropie (NES mini, but for more consoles and connected to a CRT over component) and I get a lot of mileage out of them