methods of input (Part 1)

What happened to them?

I’ve had the wheels go (both the click button and the scroll action) on like $20 logitech mice after ~2 years but nothing worse than that

I bought really cheap peripherals for years and got accustomed to small mice that way, so I was actually looking for a semi-premium small mouse that had thumb buttons and bluetooth (I <3 generic protocols) and it delivers

I love my deathadder. It took me forever to find something where the extra buttons were big enough and reasonably placed.

I just bought a 8bitdo lite over the weekend. I cannot get my RetroPie to see the tiny L2 and R2 buttons and—less surprisingly—correctly hitting the L3/R3 d pad clicks on the config menu is impossible. I think I have to mess with the retroarch defaults to get it working for Virtualboy games. I’m not sure if that’s something I broke years ago or if it was just like that out of the box. Haven’t tried it with my Switch yet.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a mouse fail on me, every time I’ve ever bought a new one was for ~upgrades~

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I have a white logitech optical mouse from 2004 that I used until the button switch for the left click died like 2 years ago.

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madman put microswitch shoulder button replacements in an snes pad

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Anyone done full micro-switches in a pad?

Seems like surface mount mouse units might work.

I have an OG Monoprice Zowie that’s old enough that I’ve rubbed the printing off of it and it still works great.

I bought a Microsoft optical mouse in 2001 along with a Logitech optical mouse. The Microsoft mouse died within a year. The Logitech is still in service to this day.

God I hope the pad on this doesn’t suck because it is beautiful:

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I feel like the resident controller pervert because of how often I respond to this thread. Nevertheless!

As someone who owns an Astro C40 and, now, the PlayStation “back buttons”…just get these dang rear buttons for $30 instead. They sit real nice in a way that feels good right under your middle fingers, and also feel pretty dang good to press. Considering I had to extensively look up how to swap profiles, it’s unlikely you’ll switch profiles mid-game.

The Astro C40 is a damn nice controller, weighs a ton and can do just about all you want it to. But almost $200 vs. $30? For the primary feature? Nah. Just get the dang button attachment. Hell, get two for less than the price of a full controller.

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Now if I could get a controller with extra buttons on the rear with L3/R3 mapped on them, with sticks that don’t click I feel like I’d be in business. I accidentally crouch/sprint in so many damn FPS games

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left click went out on all of them, just 16.5 years earlier in the case of the deathadder and g203

Alright, I’ve been using these back buttons for like two days, and my verdict is that they are Pretty Good.

It’s kinda funny that the one button they won’t let you map is the Share button? Options, yes, but not the Share button. Or the touch pad, for that matter. Everything else is fair game.

They’ve got a real nice click to 'em, though. But! They also seem to shave a chunk of battery life off the already miserable DS4 battery. So, uh, be aware.

Anyway, I still prefer the big chunkiness of the Astro C40 over the DS4 (even if the back buttons are much more satisfying to press than the C40’s buttons), but a $30 attachment for pretty much the same functional advantage + better triggers is probably gonna keep me on the DS4 for a bit.

have you tried using these on PC? like, would steam natively recognize these things, and let me map R3/L3 to them?

They have a screen on the attachment itself and they only take remaps. So you’d remap them on the controller itself and they’d report R3/L3 to directinput.

wild that they couldn’t have fit another battery in there given how quickly it already discharges and the price

Yeah, the attachment interfaces with the controller itself, so apparently it’ll work on anything else you use your DS4 with, as long as those remapped buttons work on it.

While looking up virtual on screenshots DIY lo-buck twin stick appeared

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