speaking of speakers, I can’t use mine anymore because the tweeter on one of them started, uhh, squealing a month or two ago. it makes horrible noises anytime it’s plugged into a power source, whether or not there’s any sound, or even any sound source plugged into the damn thing. anyone know what the hell that could be about? I took the offending speaker apart to see if I could see anything, and, whelp there sure is a tweeter in there. it’s got some wiring attached. I took it out, looks fine to me. it’s a powered speaker so there’s some sort of circuitry in there somewhere, but it’s all sealed away in some plastic nonsense. these speakers were like $300, and they cost fucking $500 now. they ain’t getting replaced. I emailed the little company that makes them and they either ignored me or they don’t check their email ever. life sucks, I hate wearing headphones
probably the power supply, hope you can try a spare
I think the real Normal Person option is to just get a cheap Bluetooth speaker and connect your PC to it, if all you need is something Decent
I barely trust Bluetooth by itself to not have issues with latency and I definitely don’t trust the unholy combination of Windows and Bluetooth to not completely wreck audio sync
That’s fair
I used one of these as a desktop speaker for 10 years and I still use it for movies sometimes, can confirm
I like all my sound to be rather quiet though
well that would be great, last I heard power supplies were a lot cheaper than speakers. but I don’t know shit about shit, so time to be a boomer and post a picture and ask select button for HELP
this is the power brick, the fuck does it mean and where do I buy a new one that doesn’t burn my room down
i can’t bring myself to buy speakers for monitoring without going through the total acoustic treatment studio-spec saga so i settle for one of these pieces of shit when i want to hear something basically a notch about a cellphone driver, which is rare
https://www.amazon.co.uk/b/ref=dp_bc_5?ie=UTF8&node=16700225031
in no way a recommendation i just needed to share my truth
well, you have both the product and model numbers
other than that, you need the bit after the efficiency label info that tells you the voltage and polarity and also I guess you need the barrel jack size
seriously, just google the model number, the majority of the results point to new aftermarket PSUs you can buy that feed 2.5A at 24V and also make reference to what speakers they’re originally meant for
you want one with the same symbols/stats: 24V DC 2.5A, barrel connector with centre positive
no idea on the barrel connector size, you’ll have to measure it with your callipers. 2.1mm (internal) x 5.5mm (external) is standard
main thing is the wattage rating, 24V * 2.5A = 60W. if the specs say something weird like “rated to 36W”, that’s a potential fire hazard if you drive the speakers to max and they try pulling more current. skip those listings
I see the power supplies with the same model number are outrageously expensive, for audiophiles. any 24V 2.5A supply will work. you can choose one with higher output amps but the voltage has to be 12
I’m still using the speaker set that came with my family’s first (non garbage picked) computer in 2000. They’re surprisingly meaty and somehow we never blew them. I know there’s a straight line from Gateway to Flint’s water getting poisoned but they did do good with their pack in speakers back then.
Yeah I got like 12 years out of a set of speakers (and a subwoofer) that came with my family’s first PC, a Gateway 2000. Sad day when I finally ruined that subwoofer
god I used those for like 15 years
I love the gravi it’s nearly identical to the excellent microsoft trackball explorer from the 2000s
but with a size slider turned up to 1.75, and that’s the impressive thing that deserves 
I bet there’s some people who still swear on the original but not me. I love that it doesn’t have the sticky rubbery plastic buttons and it’s so much smoother than the sticky friction on a used explorer I tried. Higher DPI helps too. Right mouse button placement is still a bit questionable, but it’s fine when remapped in games.
And I thought the size might be an issue but it’s still okay for my S sized hand. Would ball again.
“x-button mouse control” sounds like an adware program from 2004 but you can use it to switch the buttons globally so you dont have to rebind stuff. I did this for a little bit until I realized I had gotten used to the default layout more than I thought, but I found it to be a highly useful program so I didn’t bother uninstalling it
I tried XMBC and autohotkey for stuff like this before but it’s fine, as long as I don’t need to hold both mouse buttons at the same time.
This is my other setup btw:
Ambidextrous trackball on the left is really nice when my right hand gets tired. Got MarbleScroll.exe in my autostart to turn the ball into a scrollwheel when 3rd or 4th button is held down.
Oh and this in the other room:
Always be ballin…