The limits of appropriation

I’m finding it increasingly difficult to figure out how I fit into (or knowing if I even want to get involved with) discussions about appropriation when the word, used as a description for wide-ranging cultural phenomena, is often used as an absolute negative. I see appropriation as vital to cross-cultural developments in the arts, but it’s hard to bring that perception to conversations that treat it as an evil.

It’s easy to understand why [X] is okay and [Y] is not okay when capital – quantity – is involved: for example, it may not be ethical to sell a product with symbols of an American-Indian/native American tribe, whose people sell their own products for livelihood, when you do not belong to that tribe because that is an intrusion (perhaps even an illegal one) upon a marginalized marketplace. The question’s ethical dimension becomes a little murkier, though, when you’re not profiting. Is it okay for the homeless white man to play a rock tune – as rock is derived from the blues, a black invention – and is it not okay for the housed white man to play a rock tune, given the disparity of privilege?

I started to feel less sure about this subject with the protestations last year of a feature the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston had that allowed visitors to don kimonos. The protests were small, as were the counter-protests, and I was disappointed to find out that the feature was taken down when there was the opportunity to, at that point in time, formalize it into a public discussion while keeping the kimonos available as symbols of complexities. More than anything, to me, the protests felt opportunistic: the sort of easy target of older white people putting on kimonos for photos (“Orientalist!!!”) served as the entry point for broader frustrations with the MFA, and western culture at large, even if that particular case wasn’t especially egregious.

But, to me, there was also the issue of how this negative response might’ve set a precedent for future exhibits that would’ve employed struggling foreign industries, such as the kimono industry (the MFA’s kimonos were from Japan), and thereby helped them. Did this apologetic removal cut off another source of income for the kimono market? Was it actually a form of economic oppression in the name of sensitivity? And – less novelly – what about the Japanese people who were okay with the exhibit? It’s less a question of who gets to be a spokesperson for what – no one person is ever going to be qualified to speak for a whole country or ethnic group – and more of one of how a person’s background grants their perspectives and input gradations of legitimacy within these conversations.

The easiest response to any of this is to say “If you’re unsure about the acceptability of your appropriation, it’s best not to go through with it”, but that only encourages a cultural isolationism that introduces a new and maybe worse problem into the mix. Beyond capitalism, and beyond mentalities that explicitly embrace white supremacy, we have a fairly good idea about why, say, blackface is repugnant – a repugnancy that I would argue is especially noticeable now not just because of its history but because it is a modification of the most symbolically coded part of the human body. What about the things outside of these obvious transgressions, though?

The thought that I’m building towards here is that the more complex the conversations and justifications about Why Appropriation [X] is Okay, While Appropriation [Y] is Not Okay become, the more this sort of cultural gatekeeping may be bound up in class, as class influences our interests to varying degrees. There is going to be some difference of opinion between the black musician in a scraping-by jazz band, whose other members are white, on their involvement with white jazz musicians, and the black academic within a university’s sociological department (I’m using these not as examples of concrete individuals but as different mindsets (NB: there is no intention here to say that anyone who is not an academic is incapable of or never entertains complex thoughts on culture). What’s curious about this intellectual stratification is that it might come about because of a concern for people who themselves aren’t concerned – or are concerned to a severely lesser degree – about such-and-such an appropriation. So then it’s like: do you try to convince them that they should care more? Or is that a transgression in itself?

I… don’t think any of what I’ve written is original, but I wanted to put it down somewhere.

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Yes

The way I keep track of this in my head is: “cultural appropriation” for things that are basically cultural theft and displacement, especially of sacred symbols, especially with ignorance of original context: white people selling dream catchers and basically anything a fast-fashion place like urban outfitters does, getting a tattoo of basically any religious symbol not your own

Not appropriation (usually just “cultural exchange”), things that aren’t sacred and actively promoted by the culture of origin as a thing for the world to share in; actively learning a thing and participating in it with source culture: white people wearing kimonos, white people practicing yoga, anyone learning a foreign language, non-black people learning to play jazz, anyone eating food from outside their culture

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My quick rule is, I guess: does the act demean or devalue the source, does it gain for the appropriator in place of the appropriated (financial capital, cultural capital, exposure…). There are probably holes in there, but I don’t I do anything that has needed me to make it tighter.

The definition of ‘appropriate’ is to take and make one’s own. So… there’s nothing really nice about that term. It doesn’t imply any exhange, or consent. In art, at least, it’s used a bit too loosely to things that might be better described as recontextualisation or…

I think this actually discourages isolationsim. To me it says that if you are not aware enough of what you are taking do not take it. In other words become aware.

 


 

Here’s a related thing posted on FB yesterday:

 


 

What do you mean by ‘cross-cultural developemnts in the arts’? Why is that important?

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Kimonos suck but also they are fabric celebrations. Like they are literally just displaying a fabric.

Gonnba be up for 10 minutes being angry at people having so few problems in their life that that is the one they go after yeeesh.

I don’t know how to respond to the larger questions itt but I just want to point out that there were more levels to the discontent w/ the kimono show than just “it is racist for white people to wear Japanese clothes.”

The Monet painting it was promoting is itself a mild joke about the popularity of Japanese-ish junk in France in the olden days, and the kimono presented to be worn was modeled on the one depicted in the painting. So, inviting guests to put on the kimono and take pictures of themselves in it is a weird way of reproducing the triviality and faddishness that is being parodied in the original piece, in a manner that was probably meant to be thought provoking or reflective, but imo doesn’t really work out that way.

Next you have the notion that this promotion assumes a white or at least non-Japanese audience for the painting and the exhibit, to the point of feeling exclusive–come put on the crazy kimono and take a picture of yourself in it, because that’s obviously something so exciting that you’ve never done before just like the wild white lady in this painting, and then you can look just like her, as long as you’re a white lady.

And then there’s also the question of whether this is really an appropriate or desirable way to promote a painting at all. I mean, I know museums have to do sort of low brow things to appeal to broader audiences and encourage interest, but there have got to be limits to this and sometimes it’s hard to figure out where they are. Does the museum always promote paintings with costume-based activities? If not, what is it about this particular piece that encourages that line of thinking?

Finally, part of the irritation also most certainly comes from the obvious facetiousness of the entire enterprise, claiming that it is a way to promote not only the painting itself, but also a way to bring the artistry of kimonos into a museum setting. If this is the case, why center the entire thing around a European painter’s portrait of a European woman, rather than an exhibit that is actually just about kimonos?

Furthermore, I am not sure it is fair to blame the people who were upset about the exhibit for its failure to “start a dialogue.” It did start a dialogue, and it ended up being one that the curators were not comfortable continuing. On the other hand, I have not done a lot of review when writing this post, but as I recall it actually did seem like the MFA’s response to the whole thing was somewhat thoughtful and considerate, so in that case I don’t even know if it’s really fair to say that a dialogue did not take place.

I also want to question this idea that canceling the exhibit somehow created an economic impact on a struggling kimono industry. How many kimonos would the exhibit have sold if it hadn’t been cancelled? Since when are museum exhibitions intended to generate revenue for anything other than the museum itself? Is the kimono industry really ‘struggling?’

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Museums lately are adopting a multi-layered approach to interpreting their objects. While I don’t think Monet’s intentions should be overlooked, there’s sort of an anti-snob angle now that if someone wants to enjoy the piece as a nice painting of a lady in a dress, there’s nothing wrong with that. It’s sort of the populist version of post modernism’s focus on the observer’s experience.

I do have a friend who’s taken the Elgin marbles issue pretty deeply and seems to think all museums should repatriate all items. He also makes shit tons and money and can travel the world. Full disclosure, meanwhile I’m working at a museum on non-profit wages and barely scrapping by.

As a white guy who worked at a studio run by white guys explicitly created to revive and reinterpret Japanese culture this topic hits me in strange way. I don’t want to wall off cross-cultural experimentation and that really is one of the best avenues for the cultural mutation that produces fresh experiences.

At the same time I recognize that ‘don’t be an asshole’ isn’t enough when the community you’re creating within is so segregated already that you lack perspectives that can identify when you’re crossing a line. My experience tells me that the best way to avoid unintentional appropriation is to build a diverse team. I’m at a large (200+) studio at the moment and I can’t tell you how depressing it is to go through a round of interviews with people who look exactly like you, then arrive and realize that everyone is exactly like you and you’re already pushing against the stifling creative bounds of AAA.

For instance, today I open my email and see a thread: “let’s go see Batman The Killing Joke (an R-rated batman cartoon) in theaters!”

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Ayyyy, The Void DLC is pretty fun times. お疲れ様でした and all that.

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If you are an artist, it is your job to steal any and all culture and twist it to your own ends. Good art is theft.

I think it’s more a question of awareness and respect, as others have pointed out. the problem with appropriation comes when it is careless, insulting, ignorant, or even exploitative, which is super common. there will always be a gray area. I do believe at the end of the day an artist should be free to do whatever they want. appropriation can’t be viewed as an aesthetic mistake. it’s an ethical issue. artists should be (and are) free to steal from whatever culture they want. but they should not complain when they are criticized for it.

so for the artist you owe it to yourself to get as educated as possible and make a decision. looking back on some songs I’ve written, for instance, there is definitely some problematic language and ideas in the lyrics. sometimes when I sit down to record these songs, I try to rework those aspects as they don’t really represent me anymore. at other times, I decide I’d rather stand by a problematic aspect because it is crucial to the art, and I think it’s equally problematic to over sanitize things. sometimes you need a little rawness and ugliness. but part of that decision means that when the music is released, I will be vulnerable to criticism for it. I’ve decided to welcome that as gracefully as I can, even though it might easily get ugly.

(this example is purely academic bc no one gives a shit about my music lol)

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so much of japanese culture is appropriation of american culture

of course, it’s not comparable entirely because of uneven power relationships, but it’s still an interesting example outside of the typical “white ppl appropriating black culture” scenario which usually sets the tone for these kinds of discussions

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Tell us more about this pizza-themed blues song.

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We will never let it go, Toups.

The in-joke is too strong.

the important thing is all humans should be wearing robes to the exclusion of most other garments

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Yes. I was considering putting this in my initial post but decided against it bc I didn’t want to make it the focus. Imo, the prickliest element, by far, of the whole feature was its association with Monet’s painting of his wife in a kimono. But again, I think that shutting the whole thing down was a mistake, rather than relocating and/or recontextualizing it. Move it to a part of the Japanese galleries with a new plaque explaining the rationale.

For high-end kimonos, yes. The process takes a long time, the artisans who know the proper techniques are few, and the prices are high. I have also thought about the questions you’re asking. To reiterate and restate a part of my initial post, my concern was not solely that this backpedaling and cancelation might’ve hurt a marginal overseas market, but that it might make museum higher-ups worried about collaborating with clothing makers in the future who would’ve financially benefited from that collaboration. Fuck up once (according to some people) at this sort of institution and apologize, fine. Fuck up twice and you’ve really got something tricky on your hands.

Yoga is one I always feel weird about, because it definitely has origins as a religious practice, and America sure does a good job of just cutting that part out of it, to the point where people don’t get how tied into Hinduism it may or may not be. I’m no expert on it, by far, but I always get a little squeemish about it.

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This article serves the double purpose of giving a minor historical background to India’s attempts to integrate Yogic practices into western culture and also highlighting another cancelation done in the name of “cultural sensitivity” that I think was incredibly poorly handled and preemptive. There is such a swiftness of judgment in cases such as these, and it reminds me of a question I often have: is that swiftness coming from a place of consideration informed by a coherent framework of levels of acceptability re: appropriation (i.e., these people have so thoroughly thought through appropriative circumstances, on such a prepared level, that they can react more quickly than others?), or is it being driven by a collectively intoxicating and uniting sense of empathic outrage (which is perhaps not even shared by a significant number of the people the outraged are trying to care for)? It seems like, in this case, it was the latter.

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I admit my squeemishness is a personal thing. I’m not going to try to get some yoga class shut down for never mentioning Hinduism, or anything like that. It just always strikes me as weird that the practice of it as exercise gets largely divorced from the spiritual components.

And yeah, just getting them shut down based on that would be silly as a whole, especially when Indian culture is pretty enthusiastic about spreading itself as that article details. I think part of the thing of “appropriation” is tied to if the parent culture wants that spread around. That article details Indian people spreading the practice of yoga and sharing it, and that is cool. Doesn’t make me any less weird about the spiritual/physical divide, but means that I don’t feel that people shouldn’t do yoga or whatever.

Cultures borrowing elements of other cultures so that new forms are born.

It’s important because cosmopolitan aesthetic developments make the world a richer place.