Model Citizens


#21

I have a Sotar 20/20 but I replaced basically everything but the body with… parts from whatever Badger is basically the Sotar. Renegade? I’ve always prefered Badgers to Iwata just because they’re way easier to find parts for in-town, but if I get a new airbrush I’ve been eyeing a Grex pistol-grip for a while. Honestly I think they’re all about as good as each other, though, it’s hard to go wrong.

Tempted by the new Badger ‘triple action’ brushes tho :thinking:


#22

image

Nothing drives home how much Gundams are designed to support model kits more than building a kit based on another media property. In order to look even close to the box art you’re going to have to paint this thing.

To complicate matters further, all the little bits are difficult to make stick, and in a perfect world this thing should be glued together, IMO.

So essentially I’m putting this thing together now with the idea that in the not too distant future I am going to paint it! It seems like it would be an excellent thing to test painting Bandai’s style of plastic.

More on the situation as it develops!


#23

Now some actual progress on one of my kits. After assembling this guy sometime last summer, and then priming him a few months ago, I’ve finally started painting him.

I’m getting pretty far along in the pricess at this point, having laid down some base coats and some ‘shades’. My objective of making a very 1970s looking robit seems to be going well, and it’s helped me figure out how to do a lot of stuff whenever I assemble and paint the next one.

I’m really pleased with how well this one is turning out, though.


#24


It’s adding the little details that really brings a model to life.


#25

V good skulls


#26

Shoulder edging is also very good

Do you want criticism?


#27

Sure! I haven’t even finished painting this one yet.


#28

Sorry to be cliche, but you need to thin your paints more. Ideally you want it to be where if you dab your paintbrush on a paper towel, it’ll soak in without feathering.

How are you building up to the yellow?


#29

About 3-4 layers of of a thinned base yellow, and one to two of a thinned layer yellow. Same deal with the orange.


#30

With yellow, if you’re going to prime back, you probably want to build up from brown, for darker yellows, and build up to a white base for brighter yellows. Painting yellow suuuuuuuucks


#31

Shade yellow with purple mixes :bbcool:


#32

Generally I would say darker yellows can shade into orange or brown. If you go with orange be careful on something like a cloak so it doesn’t end up looking orange from a distance.

Lighter yellows you should shade into green which I know is super scary and I’m sorry


#33

Yeah if I could could do this over again I’d prime the base with some Khaki primer I have. I’ve been using that on another miature and the yellow cake out flawlessly with less coats.


#34

I always like Vallejo grey primer but I bet a khaki primer is great


#35

It’s a Vallejo khaki! It’s actually for gunpla but has worked real well when I’ve used it on test sprues and even a metal miniature.

It goes on about as thin as the regular Vallejo black I have, but seems to be a bit more durable.


#36

I’ve been meaning to move away from the grey for a while because I have trouble telling shades apart and a lot of models I can’t tell where I’ve primed or not x_x


#37

I should work on my gouf


#38

In non-gouf news, I finally finished my first gunpla!


#39

Shoulda painted a red trout on that there nippon steel