I’m very proud of my hitbox but I have nothing I actually can and want to play with it
The Hori 10b is swell. It has duplicate buttons so you can play things that are meant to have four shoulder buttons, and you can also play things that are meant to have six face buttons.
I’d avoid the Neo Geo Pad 2, they’re prone to breaking. The inside is a big white piece of plastic violently thwacking at delicate switches. Honestly, it’s amazing there are any left that haven’t broken yet.
The Saturn options are all good!
The button membranes on both my USB Saturn pads are shot, one button on each limp and mushy to the touch. End of an era. ;_;
I did manage to pick up one of those Mayflash adapters for Mega Drive 6-button pads, so beginning of another era I guess?
I bought a Hori Fighting Commander 4. It’s a really solid piece of kit. D-pad and buttons and everything feels good. the d-pad is not exactly the same as the D-pad on the Hori Pad EX2 Turbo I have.
the ex2 d-pad feels more crisp to begin with, with little give, but becomes mushy with intense play. the FC4 d-pad has a little more natural play but feels like it’s ‘broken in’ and just right. we’ll see what happens over time i guess.
the button action on the ex2 turbo feels kind of like those really nice topre keyboards, like little mini plungers. the FC4 buttons don’t feel quite as nice but they’re still very tactile and you definitely know when you’re pressing them.
Also there’s a switch to have the D-pad emulate LS/RS instead, and you can also switch the bumpers from L1/L2/R1/R2 to L3/R3/L1/L2 (which is convenient since R1 and R2 are face buttons as well).
also as mentioned you can rotate the d-pad and also adjust the sensitivity of the diagonals, tho i don’t plan to do either. rotating the d-pad supposedly makes it loose over time.
(not my pics)
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I also bought the Buffalo USB SNES pad. If you’re looking for a SNES pad this is the one to go with. the bumpers in particular are great – they kind of have the fulcrum towards the center of the pad, so you press down on the outer edge to depress the button. it’s very obvious when you’re pressing them. the d-pad is quite solid although when i was trying to play street fighter it seems to be a bit finicky about how it registers diagonals. that may or may not be an issue for the games you play, but for most SNES/GameBoy type games i don’t think it’ll be a problem.
i imported a legit super famicom pad from japan quite a while back for emulator use, and i much prefer this pad.
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I love how Share and Options are given the Rectangle and Triangle treatment.
I will plug these whenever I see them mentioned: they are really good, and really cheap. My favorite pad for anything that doesn’t require the full Modern Era Twinsticks setup.
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Man, what the heck?
The Buffalo SNES pad is a lot better then their Famicom pad, but it ain’t no legit super famicom pad.
Give me the Super Famicom pad anyday.
maybe i haved used a good sfc pad, mine was used
Obscure 3rd party Saturn controller with a NGPC/NGCD-style microswitch thumbstick. Interesting.
I find these compelling.
God damn.
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Someone modded a Gravis Gamepad Pro with an NGPC microswitch thumbstick? That’s… kind of brilliant, aside from the GGPP’s not so great buttons.
My new hero, get this man a Kickstarter crew.
So during that recent sale, I took the plunge and got a Steam Controller. So far, it’s really awkward to use. I think I really need to fiddle with the right touch pad sensitivity, and for some reason, I always hit B when I’m reaching for A. Does anyone have any pointers or favorite game/config combinations?
So far I’ve tried it with L4D2, Goat Simulator, and that Turok remaster. Haven’t figured out how to set up the gyroscopic controls yet.
When you’re in the controller config screen, the gyro is that rectangle in the middle below the controller.
What I tend to do is to find a speed that suits me on the touchpad, then set up the gyro to roughly half that sensitivity and have it set to only activate on pad touch. You want to use the pad for large, sweeping motions and the gyro for fine aiming (if you have access to a Wii U with Splatoon, use motion controls and turn the aiming speed all the way up; it’s very much the same principle). this is also personal preference, but I always stick actions I don’t want to take my thumb off for on the paddles (usually jump and reload/use).
I found myself looking at the floor too often, so I increased the vertical friction and lowered the vertical sensitivity. By default I think it’s absolute 1:1 in every direction which is for people who played Quake with a trackball. I also turned the haptic feedback all the way up. The joystick emulation never clicked for me, so I use either trackball or mouse-like joystick.
Try to map your most used inputs to the paddles and get comfortable with them. I think paddles will be mainstream on controllers soon.
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Hey I actually did this for a while in middle school, I guess that means I should get a Steam Controller.
I tried one of the defaults that has you tap the right pad to use the gyroscope, and that was pretty sloppy. The triggers sound more reasonable.
The paddles are the rear buttons right? I kept accidentally hitting those too.
I feel like I have to relearn how to play video games to use this thing. Not sure if that’s exciting or awful.
As someone who swears by pad touch to activate the gyro, just leave your thumb centered on the pad and move to use the gyro. Don’t try to use both in concert, use one to set up or refine the other and don’t run them at the same sensitivity.
Also, the paddles are awesome because you can just not use them as primaries but as shifts and start adding modifiers everywhere (I made up a dumb config for WildStar where half the buttons had shift options set with the paddles, but I could never test it because no one plays WS anymore).
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This is brilliant.
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Valve updates the client by enabling just about everything to have shifts and binds, have gone mad with power
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