I think I may have, in traditionally janky fashion, fixed my problem by intentionally kinking a specific portion of the cord and securing it with a scavenged elastic hair tie. More as the situation develops.
I picked up a second SS Hori pad, a clear one.
http://segaretro.org/Horipad_SS
Functionally itās the same.
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[quote=ānotbov, post:58, topic:250, full:trueā]
What else would you do with a free hand while paying a game that only requires the attention of one[/quote]
i usually just rest my hand inside my waistband. itās warm+comfy
Does anyone know how to repair/replace the button rubber for a Super Famicom Hori Fighting Commander?
I have one that works great, and one thatās pretty iffy.
God bless that video.
Woah, look at this
I was just thinking how great it would be to have a stock Sega pad with hori buttons, this isnāt quite what I had in mind.
I wonder how expensive it would be to get custom controllers made.
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That poor Saturn pad ;_;
Thereās some other custom stick dude that makes these huge more-integrated plastic pad things with arcade buttons, as well, donāt remember his name though.
Remain genuinely surprised, in the era of gamer keyboards etc, no one is building fully micro-switched pads.
Edit: Actually I guess thatās not 100% true: never realized that PDP fightpad
from a few years ago had microswitched buttons in addition to its microswitched ngpc-style clickystick. Their newer MKX pad
apparently has a standard-style mush-contact Dpad with microswitched buttons. So close. Iāve steered clear of the older clickystick design after reading about poor build quality and already owning one of the old SNK PS2 ngcd-style clickystick pads. Probably worth investigating further, though.
A guy in my local scene liked to use the PDP clicky-stick pads. They felt good, but they consistently had some sort of cord and/or PCB failure within six months or so of heavy use. They simply stopped working when connected to a system one day, usually just before a local tournament. He went through at least 3 of the things during Marvel 3ās heyday.
The PDP pads are the very most frustrating things, because the design and feel are absolutely perfect and the engineering is just utter trash. Even at the $10-15 they settled out at, their lifespan is too short.
Okay, so I have a stick. Itās a Hori Fighting EX2. If you donāt know about this stick, what you should know is that they soldered the buttons directly to the PCB (like, the only thing keeping the PCB pieces in place are the contacts with the buttons). Now, a few buttons on mine have gone bad, so I though I would replace them since I have a little extra cash.
Getting the old buttons and the PCB separated? That was easy, just a matter of taking my time with my iron. Cutting the button inserts so the new buttons will fit? Fuck you, Hori or: I pretty much need a metal file to get these things in flush.
I do enjoy excuses to get new tools
That PDP fight pad feels great, but the start and select buttons are too close together. I was briefly using it with my raspberry pi where start and select were automatically mapped to exit the game, and I kept triggering that every time I wanted to pause.
oh god
what madness have I gotten myself into
the funny part is that everything works, I just have to close it and hope everything still works
My solution was to entirely rip out the stock PCBs in the EX2 and replace them with new buttons wired to a PS360+. It looks almost as bad internally.
The main issue is that the small ribbon cable connecting the main and daughterboards died, so I do new runs to hook up the 4 rightmost buttons.
A sane person would have just gotten rid of that secondary PCB outright. Me? Extra cables everywhere
Also, I destroyed a contact point when taking the old buttons out and now if itās not flush with the PCB, it activates the microswitch for left (?) and if you press it (10) and 9 together, it activates button 2 (???).
Sounds like somebody needs to buy a new board and call it a day.
Speaking of whichā¦
Jesus, the Brook board is seriously $90? Thatās as much as a Madcatz Alpha. Gougers gonna gouge, I guess! And thereās a $5 charge for having the screw terminals and USB jack soldered on? Guess Iām not going to bother buying one of these for any upgrades for a while.
I have electrical tape and thatās cheaper than buying a new PCB
Personally, Iām more concerned about my propensity for grabbing the wrong bits of my soldering iron (my left thumb and index finger can attest to this)
Finally decided to finish this up
Joystick closed up, all buttons and stick firing off properly and all I had to do to get it done was drink and not tighten a screw all the way
Quality work pays off
.
The original idea behind the 24mm buttons was to keep the buttons closer together to allow for using either thumb on jump, but in practice, I almost always dedicated my left thumb to jumping. If I make another to replace my old homebrewn one, Iāll stick with the 24mm for Left/Down/Right, but use 30mm for all the action buttons.