methods of input (Part 2)

that famicom colors one looks pretty slick. i think i’ll bite

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Do the super buttons only connect to this keyboard? If so that’s a shame I might have bought one for funsies

They are listed as only working with this keyboard, yeah, they don’t have USB or anything. Wonder if by chance they work with the Xbox accessibility controller thing, doesn’t it use TRS-plug modules?

Also wonder if they have mechanical switches or membrane pads.

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pneumatic buttons like SF1 arcade imo

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For only, ah, the price of that whole bundle you can get, um, a set of somewhat more fussily constructed (triple-shot ABS) keycaps I’m not a good bargain hunter.

oh no I might have convinced myself

since we’re talking about 8bitdo, i frequently find myself wishing they’d put their N30 Pro 2’s back into production. they produce special edition lunar new year ones they release in China (and I have one of these), but I want the classics. I have a nephew who really likes my NES-style one and it’d be great to get him a new one, but they’ve increasingly been commanding collector’s pricing.

the in-line shoulder buttons are weird, but honestly i’m used to them now.

also is it pronounced 8bit- or 8bit-

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originally “dough” as the name was meant to evoke Nintendo

since a few years back they’ve always pronounced it “doo” officially, though. probably around the time they had to change the colors/name on some of their stuff due to nintendo’s wandering eye

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Neo Mr. 8bitDo!

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I just ordered the 8BitDo Ultimate Bluetooth because it’s on sale and the M30’s been nice so far. Very curious to try Splatoon with third-party gyro, paddles, and turbo.

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the old 2017 sn30/sfc30 pro and new sn30 pro use the same PCB design

sourcing a replacement battery for the former is a boat-bound aliexpress order so it’s good to know a case swap works in the meantime

also! if your sn30 bumpers are mushy or stuck it might be as simple as disassembling to pop the rubber membrane back into shape after it compressed due to rapid presses

yeah this shit sucks. anyone have good experiences with 3rd party xbox controllers? the only non-standard feature i need is two back paddles.

buying elite controllers is pointless when they cost twice as much but last like half as long, if you’re lucky

I’ve just been using the cheapo wired Xbox 8Bitdo controller. Not bad, but, y’know, wired.

Looks like Woot (god, I forgot about Woot) still has 'em for $20.

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idk if whatever latency introduced is too much but if ur looking to use on actual xbox i have had positive experience with the Mayflash Magic-X adapter & whatever other controllers i already own. It works 4 me wirelessly or w/ 2.4ghz with all the 8bitdo controllers i have & I was also able to use some like rando third party ps2 to usb adapter and plug it in and it totally worked.
Also works on switch so goes both ways, also nice just to have an easily accessible second controller for multiplayer or whatever

8bitdo is such a terrible name, but they make great hardware so it evens out.

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ok actually Villain’s post in ask the axe made me think it’s time to replace my 100%/numpad monster keyboard with this 65%er: GMMK 2 | The Best RGB 65% Mechanical Keyboard - Glorious Gaming

Now that I have my megaladon macropad, its just too much. I want to downsize. I appreciate that Glorious’s keyboards are fully modular, and pretty good build quality for their price. I am thinking this time around, I will get just the frame and source my keys and switches elsewhere.

Anything I might consider besides the GMMK before I go down that route?

I got gateron blacks for my current keyboard, Ive been very happy with them. I use my keyboard for both gaming (what a shocker) and lots of typing, so I don’t think I want to go the way of tactile - linear seems nice. I like my key presses to have a bit of heft to them, I don’t want any of those super light and fast “gamer” switches. What other switches are out there that I might like in comparison to gateron blacks, and which aren’t $$$$$$?

My brain is pretty rotted when it comes to keyboards – I will put up with higher prices and more annoying acquisition processes than normal people personally should – but I can vouch for the pleasantness of the (currently out of stock) NovelKeys NK65 Entry Edition.

“Entry” here just means it’s made of plastic, which I might actually prefer to metal in actual use; it sounds softer without a ton of damping material. The big advantages of the NK are (1) the way the PCB+plate is mounted and (2) that it uses the standard mechanical keyboard programming software.

The mounting system is a sorta wonky combination of top mount - the plate is attached to the top of the case - and tray mount - the plate and PCB are screwed to standoffs on the bottom of the case. Tray-mounted boards are deprecated by connoisseurs, mostly because they’re the cheapest and easiest to design and manufacturer but also because the uneven spacing of the standoffs leads to differences in feel across the keys. The NK connects the plate and PCB to both halves, which gives a consistent firm feel.

The software matters in proportion to your desire for exotic programming and your crankiness about proprietary stuff on your peripherals. If you’re not the type to manage your iPod with Winamp or write custom LED scripts or probably doesn’t really matter.

The NK also comes with a pretty nice case.

Gateron black Ink switches are still about the best I’ve used, but they’re at least $$$$.

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Some people consider them overpriced membrane keyboards but I heavily fuck with HHKB when it comes to 60%

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really happy with my niz plum electro-capacitive keyboard for a more affordable topre style that takes mx caps

i have that, an olkb preonic with creams, and a keyboardio atreus in rotation

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