Fading Brakelight Obscurity II - Championship Edition (Part 1)

maybe interesting to add to the very good hints already given here:
consider the type of engine-drivetrain layout the car has (FF, RWD, 4WD) and the type of car (Sedan, like the Subaru Impreza, or hatch, like the Lancia Delta), which is reflected in the wheelbase of the car.

Why is that important?
Well, the further apart both axles are to the front/back of the car, the more you can think of it rotating around the middle of it. imagine a car on a stick, like a popsicle. Most extreme example i can think of is the Peugeot 206 WRC:

http://cdn1.snaplap.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/09213004/Peugeot206WRC-2002-burns.jpg

The smaller the wheelbase, and the more stuff hanging over either side, the more inertia it will have. That 206 has almost nothing hanging off either side, and needed some enthusiastic handbrake janking to get the back rotate around, but it did so in a quick manner, which absolutely fitted my driving style, quick countersteering inputs and off to the next corner.
Compared to the Focus WRC from Colin Mc Rae, the Ford was more forgiving (slower to rotate), but kept more inertia when rotating, i.e. you had to drive it in a more linear/smoother way.

Last but not least, Sedans have a trunk. Why is that note worthy:
Well, when you have driven hatches that end after the rear wheels (and gotten used to it), you may find yourself crashing into things with your back on tight spaces (Monaco e.g.), if you compensate in mind for that, you should be able to adapt more quickly.

disclaimer:
most of that worked for pad-driving, i only started dabbling in wheelin’ WRC things after 2014/with a proper wheel, ymmv a bit, but since the physics are trying to simulate the real deal, it’ll still apply somewhat.

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One thing sim racing is uniquely bad at is simulating the fear that keeps you safe and allows you to learn progressively in the real world. Its why I never use rewind functions. Without the fear of consequences you don’t learn as fast or pay as much attention to the basics. In real racing finishing is your real goal and beyond that you are just doing your best. If you stick to that in sim racing you’ll have the best time.


Weight transfer is the hardest concept to explain and the most critical to getting better quickly.
Just know: Brakes throw weight forward, acceleration throws it back. Turning throws it to the outside. These can ALL be combined.
And for any action there is an opposite reaction. Suspension has to return to center after the force moving it around has left. This snap back can be a real source of difficulties and must also be understood.
The ‘Scandinavian Flick’ relies on this effect. You essentially opposite load the suspension by turning away from the corner you want to flick around and use the snap back to help super load it as you execute a maneuver in the opposite direction.

What ever tire/tires have the most weight gets the most grip and exerts the most influence. If any one tire has too much while trying to go, turn, stop or slide it will unbalance the system and result in rotation tendency around the center of gravity.

This is why keeping the suspension from getting upset is critical to smooth driving. What really helped me get there mentally was to askew suspensions tuning entirely in racing games for awhile and learn how to use a car with soft suspension. I leaned to smooth out some inputs while doing others (like brake stabs to correct a spin) faster and sooner.

So to sort of tie all that up: go slow and drive smooth and dont push tooo hard as the reality of the car’s physics reveal themselves.

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This will not last long; I have the top time attack for at least one course using the group 2 cars in art of rally.

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I would daily this. My neighbors would hate me so much. I’d probably be asked to not drive it to meet with clients.

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I love the Lead Foot festival’s like picnic atmosphere.
Also that must be a motorcycle engine. Its so zing’y.

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Yeah, the motor is out of a Suzuki Hayabusa

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I’ve seen 'busa Smarts and Minis. It’s ridiculous. Like some kind of ridiculous toy car, and I love it!

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image

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def one of the cases, where heresy AND subzero coolness collide, and imho this falls miles into cool-territory. Can’t think of another coupe where it’d work so well (with a more rounded camper tacked on top, maybe an OG mustang fastback… :thinking: )

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I sorta wonder if anyone has done anything like this for a Kia Stinger that shit could be pretty hot

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our own @lonelyfrontier wrote this great blog post about GT Sport I enjoyed a lot:

https://lonelyfrontier.net/blog/?p=7118

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Gosh I hate the “fugu” z’s giant tupperware situation. I think big over fenders on 240zs eat the lines.

I dont know how I feel about widening cars substantially.
Getting more tire under the fender makes sense when you are also increasing the horsepower greatly for track driving. Conversely a wider track means you can’t put the weight of the car as far into the apex of the corner and you have less room to maneuver if you start to lose it in a corner. My IRL concern with a 240z is that turning more than 8 inches of tire without power steering is a right bitch.

The sad thing about online racing is that only iRacing with its safety rating system has gotten things right.


interesting cage notes. it appears the fugu has a bar that runs to the floor and attaches the shock tower.
image

mine goes straight to the tower. though the seatbelt makes this photo confusing.

hopefully my approach is sound enough.

I covered the space between the shock and the wall with an 1/8" thick steel plate that is slightly bigger than the mimimum foot size for scca spec.

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Love that first bike

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my sweet lord

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you called?

oh… the 8V…
:servbotsalute:

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